tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53801255971554831482024-02-20T23:01:03.506+00:00Alex Sheppard's BlogAlex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-1092536024200474632020-03-08T12:00:00.000+00:002020-03-08T12:50:26.179+00:00Unlocking multiple BitLocker drives that use the same password in one goOn a couple of newer non-OS drives I have trialled using BitLocker which comes with Windows 10 Pro. For drives that I’ve had for many years, they have been protected using TrueCrypt, which gives some indication of the age of the drives given that TrueCrypt was discontinued in 2014.<br />
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BitLocker is slightly more integrated into Windows Explorer so that the locked drives appear in My Computer and if you double click on them, you are prompted to enter the password to unlock the drive.<br />
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When you have multiple BitLocker-ed drives you have to repeat this unlocking process for each one. If you have a different password for each then this is probably acceptable, but if the same password is used on all drives then unlocking each one, one by one, is laborious. On the other hand, when you enter a password in TrueCrypt, it will unlock any drives that make use of that password.<br />
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Therefore I set out to script unlocking my four drives that have a common password in one go and ended up with the following PowerShell script.<br />
<h2>
Unlocking</h2>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
$SecureString = Read-Host 'Enter BitLocker Password' -AsSecureString<br />
Get-BitLockerVolume | <br />
Where ProtectionStatus -EQ Unknown | <br />
Unlock-BitLocker -Password $SecureString > $null</blockquote>
<br />
Upon executing the script:<br />
<ul>
<li>you are prompted for the password (which is displayed as asterisks in the console for privacy) and it is stored in the variable <span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">SecureString</span> </li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Get-BitLockerVolume</span> lists all drives that use BitLocker</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Where ProtectionStatus -EQ Unknown</span> then filters these drives down to those that are locked</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Unlock-BitLocker -Password $SecureString</span> then unlocks each in turn, using the password provided at the prompt</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">> $null </span>hides any output in the console.</li>
</ul>
You can save this file as a PowerShell script, such as <span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">BitLockerUnlock.ps1</span>. At this point you can try and execute it but you are likely to run into 2 issues:<br />
<ul>
<li>You need to run it as administrator / click through a User Account Control (UAC) prompt</li>
<li>Running PowerShell scripts is disabled by default.</li>
</ul>
For my use case, I haven’t been able to find a way to bypass running as administrator (unless you turn UAC off which is undesirable). From what I have read, if you set up a Scheduled Task or use Group Policy to run the script at startup, the script will run as the SYSTEM user and therefore will bypass the UAC prompt, however I do not want to unlock my drives at logon.<br />
<br />
To run PowerShell scripts, you can run a PowerShell command <span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Set-ExecutionPolicy</span> which allows you to run script types of your choosing, but this is not necessary as it can be bypassed as explained below.<br />
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There’s a couple of tidy ups we can do to make running the script a bit easier and neater. If you create a shortcut to the .ps1 script, you will find its Target is similar to:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
C:\Users\Alex\Documents\Scripts\BitLockerUnlock.ps1</blockquote>
We need to update this to:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
powershell -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -f "C:\Users\Alex\Documents\Scripts\BitLockerUnlock.ps1"</blockquote>
This runs the file with PowerShell and bypasses the execution policy restrictions mentioned previously. Whilst in the shortcut properties, also set the shortcut to Run As Administrator and you can also change the icon if you’d like. The BitLocker icon can be found in <span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">%SystemRoot%\System32\fvecpl.dll</span>.<br />
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You should now be able to execute the shortcut, click through the UAC prompt and enter your BitLocker password in the console prompt. Once the script completes the prompt closes.<br />
<h2>
Locking</h2>
A simpler script can be created to reverse the process and lock the drives in one click.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Get-BitLockerVolume | <br />
Where ProtectionStatus -EQ On | <br />
Lock-BitLocker > $null</blockquote>
Upon executing the script:<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Get-BitLockerVolume</span> lists all drives that use BitLocker</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Where ProtectionStatus -EQ On</span> then filters these drives down to those that are unlocked</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Lock-BitLocker</span> locks each in turn</li>
<li><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">> $null</span> hides any output in the console.</li>
</ul>
Create a shortcut in the same way as the unlock script. One additional change to the shortcut is to Run the shortcut Minimised, so that the PowerShell console is not displayed on screen whilst it is executing. We can do this for this script but not the unlock script, as there is in password input required to lock.<br />
<h2>
Alternatives</h2>
I ended up using PowerShell as the BitLocker commands support passing in a password. There is a simpler command prompt command <span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">manage-bde</span>, however you cannot pass it a password and it will therefore prompt you for a password for each drive. A simple manage-bde command is:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
manage-bde -unlock X: -password</blockquote>
Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-51052344053266187672012-02-06T15:00:00.000+00:002012-02-06T22:28:18.981+00:00Mac Build 2011- ConclusionsEverything is now working perfectly, apart from the mains power connector sticking out of a PCI bracket. For now this will do, it is better than cutting a hole in the back of the case that I later no longer want.<br />
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Some observations I have made are that it is quite top heavy at the moment- if I had more time I may consider creating a mount in the bottom of the case to place the hard drives in and also the airflow isn’t particularly that great. I have no intake fan at the front and so the hard drives are running slightly warmer than they should do. The mesh look of the case also means dust can quite easily enter and settle inside the case. I’ve been researching ways to stop this while not reducing air flow and a recommended solution is to use a stretched pair of tights.Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-47327719207832918462012-02-05T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T17:11:27.016+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 13- Adding Power ExtensionThe ETX extension arrived and I could tuck it neatly underneath the motherboard tray. The only thing I was missing now as a way of turning it on, seeing as the front panel connectors weren’t connected.<br />
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The PowerMac front connector used 1 cable with 18 pins that plugged into the mac motherboard to power the firewire, audio, USB, power button and LED connectors. This was no good for ATX, so I came across this thread (<a href="http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=222735">http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=222735</a>) where a guy in Spain hand made the cables suitable for ATX motherboards.<br />
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At €30 it seemed quite expensive and I was slightly dubious sending this amount of money to someone on a forum in another country, but when it the cable arrived I was impressed. It was braided beautifully and worked perfectly.<br />
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Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-29510349756547445272012-02-04T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:07:32.849+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 12- Adding ComponentsThe case was ready to add my components. While the case was empty, I fed the modular power supply cables up to the top shelf and into the power supply. I then added the motherboard (with the CPU, heatsink and RAM already attacked) followed by the optical drive.<br />
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It did turn out to be a bit of a squeeze fitting the optical drive in, but as long as it’s an 18cm deep drive you’ll be fine. I then discovered my 4/8 pin ETX power connector wasn’t long enough, now the motherboard was mounted upside down. A quick trip to eBay and I found a 30cm extension for £3 with next day delivery.<br />
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All I had left to add was the graphics card and the hard drives. I reckon a 30cm graphics card should just about fit in the case before hitting the hard drive cages.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7811/31848694077_f0a7d3e76e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7811/31848694077_f0a7d3e76e_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-19729275288867088632012-02-03T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:06:53.329+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 11- Mounting the Hard Drives & PSU PlugThe case came with a 2 bay hard drive cage using screws with rubber heads to hold the hard drives into the rails. While this seems a great idea to reduce vibrations, normal screws won’t fit in the rails particularly well and finding suitable screws took a while. If you want to get originals, they go for around £8 for a pack 4 on eBay (i.e £8 per hard drive). Since I have an SSD and 3x 3.5” drives, I needed to get another identical cage or find something else. I could also have made my own bracket to mount the hard drives in the bottom of the case to lower the centre of gravity, but in the end I bought another Apple cage for £15 on eBay.<br />
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The plan was to fix the 2 cages together and then mount them in the case. The cages have 4 plastic lumps on each side which held then in place originally, but now these were in the way and so were removed with a Stanley knife. I drilled 3 holes in each side and fitted small nut and bolts and the 2 cages now sat flush together.<br />
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I then drilled 2 larger holes in each side and these would be used to mount the cages to the top shelf under the optical drive. The main choice when drilling is whether you want the rotating locks that hold the hard drives in to be on the left side (front of the case) or right side. I chose on the left, to give slightly more space for large graphics card if needs be. The only downside to this is that the hard drives are mounted upside down.<br />
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For now, I didn’t have the time to find a way to mount the power supply connector in the back of the case. I bought a right angled kettle plug and stripped the end off an old kettle lead. I fed the wire through an unused PCI bracket and up through the top shelf and soldered on the plug. While not ideal, it does keep the back of the case intact for now.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7846/46790395171_a0d80d4610_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7846/46790395171_a0d80d4610_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-24412671041846277502012-02-02T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:06:10.869+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 10- Mounting the PSUWith the PSU in place on the top shelf, I drew around it in pencil. I then removed the fan cover and from this I could work out where I needed to cut a hole in the top shelf for the fan to poke through. Unfortunately one of the four screw holes doesn’t pass through the top shelf as there was already a hole there from existing cables to pass through. But with the other 3 in place the power supply has a tight fit. There are barely a couple of millimetres between the power supply and the top of the case.<br />
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<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4834/46790394491_ed41cd807f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4834/46790394491_ed41cd807f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-73621616100905938532012-02-01T15:00:00.000+00:002012-02-01T15:00:12.230+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 9- PSU Location and ConnectorNow that I had decide to mount the power supply in the top, the next decision was how far forward or back I should mount it. The issues here were the space required between the back of the optical drive and modular cables from the power supply, and space between the power supply and the back of the case. At first thought, it would seem mounting it at the back of the case would be best, however the corner of the case curves so there’s nearly a 5cm gap between the power supply and the back of the case. <br />
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This would also leave space to for the power supply plug. I wanted to keep the case as clean as possible on the outside, so I plan to use the original power supply cable and connector.Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-39324719748144417212012-01-31T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:04:39.595+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 8- Tray mount holesThe next task was fixing the motherboard tray in place. From the guides I have seen, many people used JB Weld to fix the old mounting posts into new positions. However this is not available in the UK so I continued without it for now. Note that the motherboard mounting posts of 2 different heights for some reason. I removed all of the taller posts (by gripping them with pliers and with a little force they break away from the case) and left all the shorter ones in place.<br />
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The difficulty was working out where I needed to drill the holes through the motherboard tray to line up the mounting posts that were left. To do this I covered the back of the tray in a couple of layers of masking tape, put the tray in position and pressed down where I thought the mounting posts were. This left small rings imprinted in the surface of the tape, so I knew exactly where to drill.<br />
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This worked pretty well, only 1 post was horrendously out of position so I had to re-drill this hole. This wasn’t really a problem seeing as the tray would be hidden beneath the motherboard. I managed to use 10 of the existing mounting posts and as it turned out these were quite sturdy and so no screws were required on the back of the tray to hold it to the back of the case. This was a bonus as I really didn’t want the back of the case to look too messy.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7890/46790392731_748e5bb083_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7890/46790392731_748e5bb083_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-54874414219608276242012-01-30T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:03:46.825+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 7- Cutting the CaseNow that the power supply would be above the top shelf and out the way, I could decide where I wanted to mount the motherboard tray. Because the tray I chose was ATX, it was quite tall. So tall in fact that if I mounted it as high as it will go, it only just avoided the start of the curvature of the bottom edge of the case.<br />
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After some Photoshop work, the area that needed to be removed from the back of the case was cut and the tray slid in a treat. The corner of the tray was also cut so that the leave to open the case could be accessed. The fit was so good, the top edge of the tray was flush with the top shelf.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7914/46790391311_85903e9ecf_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7914/46790391311_85903e9ecf_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-81170121232104024362012-01-29T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:02:30.226+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 6- Trying different motherboard and PSU positionsThe biggest decision in the case mod is deciding where to mount the power supply. There were 3 possibilities I would consider.<br />
<ul>
<li>Mounting the PSU in the top- the issue here is if there’s enough height between the shelf and the top of the case and finding a new home for the hard drives.</li>
<li>Mounting it in the bottom at the front- this would require making some kind of mount / way of attaching it to the bottom of the case since there are only 4 holes in the bottom of the case. I would also need to make a cable to reach from the power plug in the back of the case to the power supply itself.</li>
<li>Removing the PSU from the case and putting it inside the Mac PSU case- this seemed to be a tidy solution, albeit the most dangerous. As soon as you open up the case of your PSU the warranty is void and so I didn’t want to do this and the find out it wouldn’t fit inside the Mac PSU case. I could then reuse the existing Mac plug connector on the back of the case.</li>
</ul>
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Another issue is the size of the motherboard tray. The ATX tray I have is quite wide (from the front to the back of the case) so moving it up or down may not be that easy if it hits the optical drive for example.<br />
In the end I decided I would mount the power supply in the top as it seemed the best use of space, leaving a large space in the case for hard drives.<br />
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At some point I got the motherboard tray cut. There were a good 5cm after the last set of holes I needed to mount it to the case and removing this area would mean I could possibly mount the motherboard tray up high in the case and not hit the optical drive. I got this cut courtesy of the main workshop in the Queen’s Building of the Faculty of Engineering.<br />
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<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4850/46790387141_d99df4102f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4850/46790387141_d99df4102f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-50477644826173501812012-01-28T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:01:37.730+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 5- Cleaning the PSUThis was the first time I’ve had a look inside a computer PSU so didn’t really know what to expect. What I found was tonnes and tonnes of dust. On the front of the case were 2 small fans that suck air through the PSU and out the back of the case. However there isn’t a filter on the front and the fans are right at the bottom of the case, so a fair amount of dust from the floor is sucked in.<br />
After sticking a hoover through it and removing the circuit board, and could have a guess at whether the PSU I had would fit in this case.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7825/39825086143_9eda9c9b69_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7825/39825086143_9eda9c9b69_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-84107440921281683732012-01-27T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:00:05.988+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 4- Cleaning the CaseThere was quite a lot of dust in the case. Some of which has dried on due to the coffee spillage. After a hoover and a spray of some metal cleaner, the inside of the case was shiny again and looked new. You can now see the motherboard mounting posts which I tried to reuse.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7920/46790384671_d29d14e7ef_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7920/46790384671_d29d14e7ef_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-81872457901543081322012-01-26T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T17:59:04.210+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 3- Stripping the Case 2After a trip to Toolstation for a long handled screwdriver I could remove the hard drive cage and fan. However the cage was too large to slide out the side of the case, so next up was removing the top shelf that supports the hard drive cage and optical drive. <br />
The shelf was held in neatly, however it also contained the lock for the side panel which tricky to remove and felt quite flimsy. Care had to be taken not to snap it. Once this was out the shelf rotated out and out came the hard drive cage.<br />
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All that was left to remove were the cables that were clipped down diagonally across the back of the case which were held in place with double sided tape.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7872/39825082593_340b9def11_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7872/39825082593_340b9def11_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-43743599885253401102012-01-25T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T17:58:45.988+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 2- Stripping the CaseThe first challenge was removing all the Apple parts in the case. Some parts were held in in very weird and peculiar ways. All the screws were different for each component, which made it a pain to remove some parts. Most screw heads were Phillips, but some had Hex and Torx heads which luckily and I had the right size screw bits.<br />
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The first parts to come out were the CPU heatsink and fan. The heatsink was heavy and absolutely massive. I could now see all the screws holding the motherboard in place. There were a few cables to disconnect for the power, front IO, fans and hard drives, once these were removed the motherboard lifted out relatively easily.<br />
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I could now access the power supply in the bottom of the case. Again this was relatively easy to remove as it was only held in by a few of screws, however there are 4 to remove from the underside of the case. The Mac PSU is strange in that it covers the whole bottom of the case, but in doing so it is relatively thin.<br />
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I then hit a problem in that I couldn’t reach some screws that held the hard drive cage in place.<br />
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<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4845/39825078363_8e8d3ef20c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4845/39825078363_8e8d3ef20c_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-2438900970066978962012-01-24T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T17:53:02.407+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 1- Motherboard TrayThe next thing I needed was a motherboard tray. A PowerMac motherboard is not ATX or any other standard you have heard of and so the screw mounts for the motherboard would be in completely the wrong places. Furthermore, the back IO ports and PCI slots were wrong as well.<br />
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Therefore a motherboard tray would be needed. The choice was ATX or mATX. Hours were spent on forums looking at other peoples builds and seeing how ATX and mATX fit inside the case with all the other parts such as power supply and hard drives in different places.<br />
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In the end I opted for ATX, since the motherboards are more common and offer better upgradability. I could only find 1 online store in the UK that sold a tray. Kustom PC’s sold a Lian Li tray for £27 and £7 postage. There was only 1 in stock so I had to buy it.<br />
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I also wanted an ATX motherboard which I could mount to the try for testing. I headed over to eBay and found an Asus one for £10 that may or may not have been working.<br />
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<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7880/39825071693_5c8700f910_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7880/39825071693_5c8700f910_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-29824762472335232292012-01-23T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T17:46:07.662+00:00Mac Build 2011- Day 0- Finding a CaseThe first task was to find a case. This was quite difficult so I headed over to eBay. Mac Pro cases didn’t really come up at all, but there were a fair few PowerMac’s from a few years ago. Some were being sold complete and working and others for spares and repair. However all I was interested in was the case, and finding one in good condition was tough with the size of eBay photos and whether what the seller thought was good condition, was actually good condition. Postage was another issue. These cases weigh the best part of 20KG and postage costs are quite high. Some people don’t offer to post at all.<br />
<br />
After a couple of weeks I found a Buy It Now for a 1.6GHZ single core PowerMac, complete apart from RAM. It was sold for spares as someone poured coffee in it. For £50 this was a steal, postage was £20 but didn’t matter. Others seemed to be selling for £200+.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7896/39825074053_7a74b9416a_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7896/39825074053_7a74b9416a_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-14224344756461382782012-01-22T15:00:00.000+00:002019-01-18T18:08:29.256+00:00Mac Build 2011- IntroductionOver the summer I had an internship working at the University of Bristol and so I thought I’d give myself a small project to carry out in my spare time. After looking around on forums and finding it had been done many times before, I thought I’d have a go at converting a PowerMac / Mac Pro case for use with standard ATX parts.<br />
<br />
However, from what I had seen of previous conversions, some jobs were pretty messy. My main aim was keeping the case tidy from the outside, with no unnecessary garish screw heads or rivets for example.<br />
<br />
Throughout the project I took photos of each stage, which you can find <a href="https://www.flickr.com/gp/alexsheppard11/Ek7Q21">here</a>. I may host these elsewhere if there are issues viewing them.<br />
<br />
Each day for the next 15 days I will post the next section of the build, in the order I carried them out in, and I’ll close with some final remarks of the project.
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4890/39825068713_901005e7c0_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4890/39825068713_901005e7c0_b.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-91763584443508925142012-01-06T02:01:00.000+00:002012-01-07T00:52:39.659+00:00READ International Naked Calendar 2012After the success of the<a href="http://alexsheppard.blogspot.com/2010/12/university-of-bristol-netball-club.html"> University of Bristol Netball Club Calendar</a> last year, I was invited to shoot the READ International calendar for 2012. The aim was to raise money for the book charity by selling the calendars to the students of Bristol.<br />
<br />
The calendar contains many different societies:<br />
<ul>
<li>Men's Hockey</li>
<li>Law</li>
<li>Cheerleaders</li>
<li>ARTofficial</li>
<li>Computer Science</li>
<li>Hispanic Society</li>
<li>Cycling </li>
<li>Geology and Geoscience</li>
<li>Banking and Finance</li>
<li>Mixed Lacrosse</li>
<li>Chocolate Society</li>
<li>Massage Society</li>
<li>Wingardium Leviosoc</li>
<li>The READ International organisers.</li>
</ul>
Each society shown doing what they do in all their glory.<br />
<br />
Here is an previously unpublished shot of Computer Science:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexsheppard11/6649212487/" title="IMG_4085-Edit.jpg by Alex Sheppard, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_4085-Edit.jpg" height="640" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/6649212487_2d468e4e70_z.jpg" width="426" /></a>
<br />
More information about the calendar and READ International can be found on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/285975588081634/">READ Bristol Facebook Group</a> or by emailing <a href="mailto:bristol@readbookproject.org.uk">bristol@readbookproject.org.uk</a>.Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-35332382446165693002011-10-03T15:41:00.002+01:002011-10-03T15:42:27.583+01:00Speeding Up LogonThere's always things you can do to improve the startup time of your computer. Here is another.<br />
<br />
If you have a password to logon to Windows, your startup programs are not loaded until after logging on. What I have looked into is a way to load these programs so that when you come to use your computer, they have already been loaded. Note that this will only work if there is only 1 user account on the computer.<br />
<br />
The way to do this would seem to be to bypass the initial welcome / logon screen, then lock the computer.<br />
<br />
The main challenge with this is skipping the welcome screen where you enter your password, yet keeping your account password.<br />
<br />
To do this, Click Start, then Run, and type "netplwiz". This works on Windows 7 Professional, it should be the same for Vista and if you use XP use the command<b> </b> "Control Userpasswords2". This will open an Advanced User Accounts Window. Untick the box, "Users must enter a username and password to use this computer". You are no longer required to enter your password to logon but you still have the password on your account.<br />
<br />
Next, you need to simulate locking the computer through the Command Prompt.<br />
In a text editor, type the following:<br />
<blockquote>
@ECHO OFF<br />
%windir%\system32\ribbons.scr /s<br />
rundll32.exe user32.dll, LockWorkStation<br />
CLS<br />
EXIT</blockquote>
The key line is the third. This will lock the computer. The second line is optional, it will run a screensaver if you so wish when you execute it.<br />
In this example, when the file is run the "Ribbons" screensaver is started, then when the mouse is moved the lock screen is shown.<br />
<br />
Save this text as a .bat file in your startup folder.<br />
<br />
That is it, but there are a couple of small tweaks you can do. You will notice that when the file is executed, the Command Prompt is shown. In the file properties, on the Shortcut tab is a field "Run" which you can set to Minimised. If you so wish, you can also change the icon for the shortcut.<br />
<br />
Restart your computer, it should automatically logon then present you with the lock screen, so when you come to use the computer your startup programs have already been loaded.Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-27975826510894395502011-09-17T17:20:00.001+01:002011-09-28T00:23:19.876+01:00Windows 7- Installing on an SSD and another drive<u><b>Intro</b></u> <br />
More and more of us are buying SSDs to use in our computers due to their faster speeds, however you may not want to shell out a lot of money to get one of a decent size. This leaves you with the possibility of installing your OS on the SSD and use another (mechanical) drive for everything else, such as your files.<br />
While this does work, I do not want to have to worry about which drive my program is going to install on, or where a picture is going to be saved. I want to run through an installer and not have to change anything, the same for saving documents. I want it all to be in the correct place.<br />
<br />
Today I'm using Windows 7 x64 and a 60GB SSD, so all of the following is aimed at
that. If you use x32, you are in luck, everything is the same and just
miss out the commands that differentiate between 32 and 64 bit. If you still use Vista, everything should still apply. <br />
<br />
I ventured online looking for some answers, most of which provided some registry changes to fool Windows as to where the users folder is located. The same for Program Files.<br />
<br />
I then found a guide that allowed you to enter Command Prompt during a Windows install and make the changes there. However, they were a bit vague when it came to x64 installations and if you missed out a command, you may find yourself not being able to logon.<br />
<br />
After about 5 or so attempts at installing Windows, I finally cracked it. I now have Windows on my SSD and users and program files on my Caviar Black. My SSD is drive C and my mechanical drive is D.<br />
<br />
<u><b>The Installation Changes</b></u><br />
After Windows has copied all the files to disk you are prompted to restart. You are then greeted with a welcome screen where you can create a user account. At this point, press Shift + F10 to bring up a Command Prompt.<br />
<br />
You then have 3 commands to enter. The first simply copies 1 directory to another. In this case, the users folder on the SSD to the mechanical drive. The second command removes the folder from the SSD and the final command creates a symbolic link between the two- so if anything tries to access C:\Users, it will actually be accessing D:\Users.<br />
<blockquote>
robocopy "C:\Users" "D:\Users" /E /COPYALL /XJ<br />
rmdir "C:\users" /S /Q<br />
mklink /J "C:\users" "D:\users" </blockquote>
<br />
These 3 commands can be repeated for the Program Files folder and if you're using x64, Program Files (x86).<br />
<blockquote>
robocopy "C:\Program Files" "D:\Program Files" /E /COPYALL /XJ<br />
rmdir "C:\Program Files" /S /Q<br />
mklink /J "C:\Program Files" "D:\Program Files"<br />
<br />
robocopy "C:\Program Files (x86)" "D:\Program Files (x86)" /E /COPYALL /XJ<br />
rmdir "C:\Program Files (x86)" /S /Q<br />
mklink /J "C:\Program Files (x86)" "D:\Program Files (x86)"</blockquote>
You have now successfully moved the files on disk, but according to Windows, they are still in the old locations. We now need to adjust the registry. In the Command Prompt, enter "regedit" to open Windows Registry Editor.<br />
<br />
Go to the following locations, and replace 'D' with the letter of your mechanical drive.<br />
<blockquote>
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion]<br />
"CommonFilesDir" = "D:\Program Files\Common Files"<br />
"CommonFilesDir (x86)" = "D:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files"<br />
"CommonW6432Dir" = "D:\Program Files\Common Files"<br />
"ProgramFilesDir" = "D:\Program Files"<br />
"ProgramFilesDir (x86)" = "D:\Program Files (X86)"<br />
"ProgramW6432Dir" = "D:\Program Files"<br />
<br />
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\ProfileList]<br />
"Default" = "D:\Users\Default"<br />
"ProfilesDirectory" = "D:\Users"<br />
"Public" = "D:\Users\Public"<br />
<br />
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion]<br />
"CommonFilesDir" = "D:\Program Files\Common Files"<br />
"CommonFilesDir (x86)" = "D:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files"<br />
"CommonW6432Dir" = "D:\Program Files\Common Files"<br />
"ProgramFilesDir" = "D:\Program Files"<br />
"ProgramFilesDir (x86)" = "D:\Program Files (X86)"<br />
"ProgramW6432Dir" = "D:\Program Files"<br />
<br />
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\WindowsNT\CurrentVersion\ProfileSet]<br />
"Default" = "D:\Users\Default"<br />
"ProfilesDirectory" = "D:\Users"</blockquote>
<br />
Once this is complete, exit the registry editor and the command prompt. You can now continue through the wizard to create your user account on drive D.<br />
Once you're logged in, when you come to install a program it will be installed on drive D.<br />
If you take a look on C:, you will see the symbolic links between the folders on the 2 drives.<br />
<br />
The only things left on your SSD will be the Windows folder. I still have about 30GB free space, which I can use for caches etc, such as the Adobe Creative Suite cache.<br />
<br />
Some of you may ask why have I moved the Program Files off of the SSD. Well, I have a relatively small SSD and don't want to have to think about whether this program should go on the SSD or elsewhere. Furthermore, most program .exe's are relatively small, so whether the amount of time saved by putting them on an SSD is questionable.<br />
<br />
And finally, the changes for the registry can probably be put into a .reg file so you don't have to type them yourself. But after 5 failed installations, I was not in the mood to work this out.Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-66741708433261391112011-08-30T00:00:00.005+01:002011-08-30T18:17:52.124+01:00HP DM1-3100SA Netbook Review- Part 4<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Webcam</span></span>
<br />Ok, if I am told to review a webcam built in to a laptop, the people asking the question must think something of it.
<br />Well, in the bluntest form, it is really not that great. The humble 640x480 resolution is disappointing; it takes me back to when mobile phones first had integrated cameras.
<br />
<br />The HP webcam software does include a load of different customisations and features, so you can take photos of yourself wearing ridiculous hats, or in front of the Eiffel Tower. This is a fun feature to see, however I am no longer a 12 year old and I rarely use a webcam anyway.
<br />I recorded the following picture of myself so you can see the image quality:
<br /><a href="http://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=108271">
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 375px;" src="http://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=108271" alt="" border="0"/></a>
<br />I also took a video and spoke over it. The audio sounded pretty good, until I started typing. The microphone picked up the sound of typing and so it sounds as if I’m typing really heavily and covers the voice a bit., but nothing to different to other laptops.
<br />
<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">HP DM1 Summary</span></span>
<br />Ok, and now to sum up how the netbook has been over the last few weeks.
<br />First of all, I generally use my desktop with dual screens for raw power while I do have a 15” Dell laptop which I take in to uni but don’t use that much.
<br />
<br />The keyboard was really easy to type on, I was surprised. The screen resolution was decent too but the touchpad was quite difficult to use.
<br />The battery has lasted about 5 hours each charge. It is nice knowing I don’t need to always carry the charger around with me unlike a laptop. Furthermore, I’ve given out the laptop for other people to use, from just having a nosy around and browsing to shooting tethered in a photography studio hooked up to an external monitor.
<br />
<br />Yes, netbooks have moved on and I was surprised how well it coped with HD videos and rendering photos. But I still don’t think I would get a netbook myself. It doesn’t quite have the power to remain fast all of the time, unlike a laptop but it does have the portability and battery life advantage. Also, at £350 it is quite a lot. You could pick up a half decent laptop for £400, for example.
<br />Therefore, if I were to purchase a new portable device, I would probably look away from a 15” laptop to an ultraportable, maybe something around 13”.
<br />
<br />Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-52143186992227840352011-08-29T00:00:00.004+01:002011-08-29T00:00:01.519+01:00HP DM1-3100SA Netbook Review- Part 3<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Graphics</span></span>
<br />This task was quite open ended so I tried it out on a few things.
<br />TL:DR- There were some issues playing HD content with video becoming choppy, but normal content should be fine.
<br />
<br />Firstly I tried playing a couple of .mkv files in VLC media player. I have a copy of the Top Gear Middle East Special, which is 720p and played perfectly well in a window and full screen. This was with mains power and the power settings on High Performance. I also have a 720p Family Guy Special episode, which again worked fine. However if I unplugged the mains, the netbook changed power plan to HP Recommended and the video instantly became choppy and unwatchable.
<br />
<br />Next up I ventured on to Youtube and did a search for “HD”. I decided to try and play the TRON: Legacy film trailer in 1080p (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9szn1QQfas">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9szn1QQfas</a>).
<br />First time I tried this, it wouldn’t play full screen. When in 720p, this was fine in window mode and acceptable full screen, although there was some slightly judderiness to the video.
<br />
<br />I tried out some HD videos on BBC’s IPlayer. First HD programme I could find was ‘Made in Britain’. In both window and full screen mode this suffered the same slight judderiness as Youtube on 720p.
<br />
<br />I left the recommended videos to last, just in case these were any different to real word use (such as TV shops showing uber awesome HD footage that works particularly well on that set).
<br />A link to an IMAX HD clip was provided (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou6_MkIvKOo">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou6_MkIvKOo</a>), which suffered the same problems as TRON.
<br />There was also an Adobe Flash video (<a href="http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/flashplayer10/live-player/">http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/flashplayer10/live-player/</a>). This worked fine full screen and looked awesome.
<br />
<br />At the end I went back to Youtube and TRON and it appeared to play full screen. Maybe the moral of the story here is that it will play 1080p, if you are doing nothing else at the same time.
<br />
<br />
<br />I previously mentioned in a previous review that I used Adobe Photoshop Lightroom to render some photos. It was not the greatest, the overall speed of the application was quite slow on the netbook and netbook screen itself didn’t have the best colour reproduction while it did have a decent resolution for the size of the screen.
<br />
<br />Games wise, I haven’t time to try any games, but if I do I’ll make a post.
<br />Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-80877337409574411882011-08-28T00:00:00.000+01:002011-08-28T00:00:02.894+01:00HP DM1-3100SA Netbook Review- Part 2<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mobility</span></span>
<br />When I first saw the subject of the review I immediately thought I’m going to find it difficult to find much to say.
<br />After all, it is a netbook and common sense tells me it will be portable. Anything below 15” I would classify as something you could move around. The decent battery life does mean that if you plan to use it for less than 5 hours, you won’t need the charger. That is some bulk lost.
<br />
<br />I took it outside to test the wireless and the screen. First issue- OMGZ glossy screen. As with all glossy screens the visibility in bright light is terrible. I don’t know why manufacturers still use it.
<br />
<br />As for the wireless, it seemed to pick up the signal ok, nothing uber strong, but probably fine with what you’re used to. As an aside I’ve used the netbook with my HTC Desire S acting as a wireless hotspot and that worked well.
<br />
<br />If I were buying a netbook, I would definitely like to see it before purchasing it, to get a feel for the size, weight, keyboard and screen. Yes, you could be plastered with numbers but you won’t get a real sense without seeing it. You will also get a chance to type and check out the screen, which play a high role in something you are going to be carrying out and about. As mentioned somewhere in another thread, the clicklet keyboard is good to type on, despite the small size.
<br />
<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Final Thoughts</span></span>
<br />Finally, I’ve been using it quite a bit this week. I’ve been rebuilding my desktop and checking out webpages / guides every now and then on the netbook. It has been nice being able to wake it from sleep, use it, then put it back to sleep, without having to think ‘is it going to run out of battery / do I need to charge it soon?’.
<br />
<br />Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-49745609028853257672011-08-27T01:01:00.005+01:002011-08-27T02:43:54.079+01:00HP DM1-3100SA Netbook Review- Part 1<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Intro</span>
<br />As a regular poster on a student forum (<a href="http://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/">The Student Room</a>), I was kindly invited to take part in a netbook review on behalf of AMD. Six members of the forum were given netbooks to review over a few weeks, with each week concentrating on a different area.
<br />
<br />The first week was battery life- read on for the review.
<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Battery Life</span>
<br />After charging the battery and booting up, the battery meter showed 4 hours 47 minutes.
<br />
<br />I started using the laptop with the screen on full brightness and WiFi on. First instincts were the range of bloatware HP crammed onto it, so I spent some time removing unnecessary programs and rebooting etc.
<br />
<br />After 1.5 hours, of this light usage, the battery meter was at 3:14 (52%).
<br />
<br />Next day I booted up and ran Adobe Lightroom. I imported a load of RAW files and set it to render full resolution previews for an hour, then returned to light usage. At this point, there was still an impressive 2 hours (38%) left on the meter.
<br />
<br />After another hour of light usage, 20% of the battery was left.
<br />
<br />Then I played a standard definition video on iplayer (non fullscreen) and after 25 minutes I’m down to the last 10% of battery.
<br />
<br />The netbook finally hibernated at 5% battery level after watching a further 12 minutes on iplayer, bringing the grand total to 4 hours 40 minutes. Not bad for a netbook that I carried out a range of different programs on, from light web browsing to image rendering.
<br />
<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Other Points</span></span>
<br />On more general notes, I’m not a fan of the touchpad. The buttons are in the same surface as the touch area, they still click to press, but any slight hovering of a finger over the click area causes erratic movement of the cursor. Therefore for most of the above tests a usb mouse was connected.
<br />
<br />It was however nice to see the Ctrl and Fn keys are the correct way round. On the F keys are the usual secondary function keys. HP decided to make these default in the BIOS, meaning Alt + F4 becomes Alt + Fn + F4. This was quickly changed back to normal. The keyboard did lack a few keys I like to use, such as the Page Up, Down, Home and End keys.
<br />
<br />The range of ports include: 3x USB, 1x HDMI, 1x VGA, headphone/microphone, SD/MMC card reader and an Ethernet port. The Ethernet port is located on the rear corner of the netbook, under a tacky plastic cover and at an angle. Not particularly classy, but it is gigabit LAN (something that is missed on cheaper computers) and the wireless was wireless N. Apparently there is also Bluetooth connectivity, but I haven’t tried it.
<br />
<br />Hard drive is of average to decent size for a netbook, 320GB. This will be fine for most users, but those expecting speed and better portability from their netbook may prefer an SSD.
<br />
<br />3 GB RAM is again, average which leads me on to the OS. The netbook can support 8GB RAM, yet HP have decided to install a 32 bit OS.
<br />
<br />Screen has a decent resolution for an 11” screen, 1366x768, however for a photographer the temperature is a bit cool by default.
<br />
<br />Speakers pack a decent punch at full volume, with little distortion but with all small speakers are lacking bass. The speakers are situated in the front edge of the netbook below the touchpad.
<br />
<br />Heat dissipation is fine, after rendering the images it wasn’t that hot, which may be due to the fan which may be a touch noisy, but not the loudest I’ve heard.
<br />
<br />And on a completely unrelated note, there were files in the Downloads folder.
<br />
<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Unboxing</span></span>
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6083744741_1c749a0e36.jpg" alt="" border="0" />
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6084289500_600f72c5fb.jpg" alt="" border="0" />
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/6083745699_2024344a23.jpg" alt="" border="0" />
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6085/6083746109_a30ef28d58.jpg" alt="" border="0" />
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6086/6083746435_70a0b41782.jpg" alt="" border="0" />
<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6183/6084291232_9ffbea3313.jpg" alt="" border="0" />Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5380125597155483148.post-65175663535769963722010-12-10T21:12:00.013+00:002010-12-11T02:40:24.860+00:00University of Bristol Netball Club Calendar 2011At the beginning of November I was invited to carry out a photoshoot with the <a href="http://www.ubu.org.uk/sport/clubs/netball">University of Bristol Netball Club</a>. They were looking to raise money for the club by creating a naked calendar.<br /><br />The shoot was carried out on 2 different days:<br />The first was in a sports hall- this was interesting to shoot in, with dark blue walls, high ceilings and fluorecent lights. All the shots were taken with 2 Speedlites, most reflected in umbrellas but a couple of shots with them bare from each side of the hall firing towards the centre. We only had an hour slot, it was a bit of a rush to get set up, take the shots and out again within the hour however I came away with some decent shots.<br /><br />The second shoot was held in University of Bristol Students' Union. I had the room booked all afternoon which gave us plenty of time to get the shots we wanted. I also had a lengthy 2 hour teaching session with <a href="http://www.flickr.com/jamiecorbin/">Jamie Corbin</a> beforehand, where he explained the best way of setting up aiming for a white background.<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5250568928_a3b3d5da22_b.jpg" alt="" border="0" /><br />The calendar is now for sale- if you are interested get in touch with <a href="http://www.ubu.org.uk/sport/clubs/netball">UBNC</a>. But be quick, there are only 100 copies.<br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center; cursor:hand;width: 333px; height: 500px;" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5249282325_ae872028b9.jpg" alt="" border="0" />Alex Sheppardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08514899439672626240noreply@blogger.com0